Optimal psychological states in advanced climbers: Antecedents,characteristics, and consequences of flow and clutch states |
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| Affiliation: | 1. Department of Tourism, University of Otago, P.O. Box 56, Dunedin, 9054, New Zealand;2. School of Physical Education, Sport and Exercise Sciences, University of Otago, P.O. Box 56, Dunedin, 9054, New Zealand;1. Department of Psychology, Rowan University, USA;2. Department of Family Medicine, Rowan School of Osteopathic Medicine, USA;3. Department of Kinesiology, University of North Carolina-Greensboro, USA;1. School of Exercise & Nutrition Sciences, Queensland University of Technology, Brisbane, Australia;2. Department of Human Movement Sciences, Vrije Universiteit Amsterdam, Amsterdam, the Netherlands;1. Queensland University of Technology (QUT), Faculty of Health, School of Exercise and Nutrition Sciences. Victoria Park Road, Kelvin Grove, Queensland, 4059, Australia;2. National Rugby League, Sydney, Australia;1. Faculty of Kinesiology, Sport, and Recreation, University of Alberta, 8831-116 Street, Edmonton, Alberta, T6G 2H9, Canada;2. Pavillon J.-Raymond Frenette, Centre de formation médicale du Nouveau-Brunswick, Université de Sherbrooke, Moncton, New Brunswick, E1A 3E9, Canada;3. Centre de recherche du centre hospitalier de l’Université de Montréal, Tour Saint-Antoine 850, rue Saint-Denis, Montréal, Québec, H2X 0A9, Canada;4. School of Human Kinetics, Faculty of Health Sciences, University of Ottawa, 125 University (MNT 339), Ottawa, Ontario, K1N 6N5, Canada;1. Department of Applied Physiology and Kinesiology, College of Health and Human Performance, University of Florida, 1864 Stadium Rd, P.O. Box 118205, Gainesville, FL, 32611, USA;2. Department of Speech, Language, and Hearing Sciences, College of Public Health and Health Professions, University of Florida, 1225 Center Dr, Gainesville, FL, 32611, USA |
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| Abstract: | ObjectivesOptimal psychological states (e.g., flow) are particularly valued by rock-climbers. The integrated model of flow and clutch states has shown promise for better understanding optimal states in sport psychology. The current study examined the antecedents, characteristics, and consequences of these states among rock-climbers in relation to the integrated model. A secondary objective was to compare optimal psychological states across outdoor and indoor rock-climbing contexts.DesignA sequential-explanatory (QUAN → qual) design was used.MethodNine male and four female advanced rock-climbers completed a flow questionnaire immediately after every climbing route during two separate climbing sessions (i.e., one outdoor, one indoor). Intensity sampling was used to identify participants for 13 semi-structured interviews, based on high- or low-score thresholds established by the research team. Data were analysed using reflexive thematic analysis and abductive reasoning.ResultsParticipants reported an optimal state during at least one of their climbs in 72% of their outdoor sessions and 40% of their indoor sessions. A focus on exploring routes was reported as preceding flow states, which were characterised by enjoyment of effortless movement for its own sake. In contrast, specific goals and additional risk-based pressure were reported as preceding clutch states, which were described as exerting maximal effort. After experiencing flow, participants reported additional vitality. Following clutch states, participants reported feeling accomplished, despite reporting exhaustion.ConclusionsThis study suggests potential antecedents, characteristics, and consequences of two distinct, yet overlapping, optimal states that appear to occur during both indoor and outdoor climbing. Findings extend understanding of the integrated flow and clutch state model beyond traditional sport and exercise contexts and demonstrates the utility of the model for adventure recreation. Recommendations for future research include testing, refining, and expanding the integrated model of flow and clutch. |
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| Keywords: | Flow state Clutch state Adventure Extreme sport Optimal state Peak experience |
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